Review: Kissaki in South Beach Evolves Into Stylish Uni Pasta and Happy-Hour Spot

With its stylish interior, pulsating dance beats, seafood flown in from Japan, and a well-heeled crowd, Kissaki isn't what you'd typically picture as a neighborhood Japanese spot. But in the upscale South of Fifth area in Miami Beach, Kissaki feels right at home.

A Big Apple transplant, Kissaki quietly opened its Miami location this past January, initially attracting a clientele of New Yorkers who were spending the winter here and already familiar with the restaurant. This summer, the restaurant is hoping to catch the attention of locals, as well, with its tableside omakase experience, high-end seafood offerings, steaks, and happy-hour specials.
Garry Kanfer, owner and operating partner, launched the original Kissaki in New York's Lower East Side neighborhood in 2020, where it quickly earned a reputation for its affordable omakase. Executive chef Edgar Valerio, who has more than a decade of experience at the Michelin-starred Jewel Bako in NYC, designed the menu, enhancing traditional Japanese dishes with Latin American flourishes.

Unfortunately, the restaurant opened just 45 days before COVID-19 hit. While temporarily continuing operations as an upscale sushi delivery business, Kanfer had trouble finding a supplier to provide fresh sushi from Japan during the pandemic. "Distributors were only selling frozen fish because of restrictions, and the pricing became astronomical," he explains. Determined to maintain quality, he removed the middleman and worked directly with a seller at Japan's famed Toyosu fish market.

Eventually, he opened his own importing company with fish shipped from Japan within 24 hours of leaving Tokyo, clearing JFK the same night, and arriving at his restaurant the next day.

Kanfer expanded the restaurant to seven locations across New York and opened its eighth in Miami this year. Despite having been founded as an omakase-focused restaurant, Kissaki has evolved into a full-fledged Japanese eatery. "Now, diners can dive into any of the omakase's 15 dishes à la carte, with nigiri flights ranging from $45 to $70, plus dishes like Wagyu beef, yakitori, and uni pasta," Kanfer shares.
One standout menu item is the "Toro Sundae," a decadent starter consisting of fatty tuna tartare, Ossetra caviar, marinated egg yolk, nori purée, and rice, served in a wooden bowl and meant to be eaten with a spoon. Presented in a similar format and also worth trying is the "Toro Esquite," an upscale Asian take on a Mexican corn salad that is prepared with fatty tuna tartare, caviar, fresh truffle, and crisp corn tempura.

Fans of sea urchin shouldn't miss the Instagram-famous uni pasta — the rich and briny crowd-pleaser consists of thick ramen noodles, bread crumbs, and wasabi and is topped with sea urchin from Hokkaido, Japan. For steak lovers, several Wagyu-centric dishes are available, including Wagyu fried rice and Wagyu-filled dumplings with a tangy truffle-ponzu dipping sauce.
Looking ahead, Kanfer wants to make Kissaki a go-to neighborhood spot for the South of Fifth crowd. "Miami doesn't know us yet. We want to change that — we're aiming to be a neighborhood favorite, which is why we've introduced a happy hour menu with $10 sushi rolls and drinks from Wednesday through Sunday from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.," he says. Plus, his team is gearing up to launch a high-end Japanese cocktail bar next door this fall, complete with nightly entertainment, so diners can keep the night going after dinner.

In a city buzzing with omakase spots, Kissaki stands out. "Our menu is more approachable and flexible. It's perfect for those who want a 15-course experience, but also for those who prefer to mingle and enjoy à la carte dishes with premium fish and cocktails," he adds.

Kissaki. 500 S. Pointe Dr., Ste. 160, Miami Beach; explorekissaki.com. Daily 5 p.m. to midnight.